1. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a water-soluble Vitamin C derivative, it's most stable at a pH around 7. Has the functions as followed:
Ø Eliminate oxygen free radicals, anti-wrinkle
Ø Inhibit the enzyme activation of tyrosinase, reduce melanin
Ø Photoprotective effect, synergy with Vitamin E. Studies have shown that 15% MAP combined with 1% Vitamin E has a better photoprotective effect
Some studies compared the skin effects of some Vitamin C derivatives to L-ascorbic acid. They found that L-ascorbic acid had the best antioxidant potential, however MAP showed another significant affect that it is able to improve hydration deeper within the skin than ascorbic acid and other derivatives.
2. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is very similar to MAP, it is also water soluble, it is also stable at a pH around 7. Has the functions as followed:
Ø Protect the skin from UV radiation
Ø Reduce skin pigmentation
Ø Increase collagen production
Ø In some studies that SAP at a concentration of more than 1% has the effective of anti Propionibacterium acnes, and a 5% concentration can reduce the inflammatory response caused by acne
3. L-Ascorbyl 2-Glucoside
L-Ascorbyl 2-Glucoside is a stable and water-soluble Vitamin C derivative. Although it is water-soluble, it is not as potent as ascorbic acid. However, the upside of AA2G is that it has a much longer shelf life compared to ascorbic acid. Has the functions as followed:
Ø Inhibit melanin
Ø Reduce melanin and relieve the formation of melanin
Ø Reduce skin pigmentation
Ø Protect against UV damage
Ø Promote collagen synthesis
Ø Improve wrinkles and rough skin
4. Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is by far the best Vitamin C derivative. It is an amphiphilic substance that is lipophilic and hydrophilic. Not only is it very stable in chemical properties, it is a color-changing Vitamin C derivative, and it is easily affected by biological enzymes to play the role of Vitamin C after entering the skin. Amphiphilic substances make it easier to penetrate the stratum corneum into the dermis, thereby exerting its biological effects, while pure Vitamin C is difficult to be absorbed into the skin. Has the functions as followed:
Ø Blocking melanin formation by inhibiting its activity by Cu2+acting on tyrosinase
Ø Whitening and freckle removing
Ø Anti-sunlight inflammation, antibacterial
Ø Improves dullness and makes skin elasticity
Ø Repair skin cell activity and promote collagen production
5. Ascorbyl Palmitate
Ascorbyl Palmitate is a fat-soluable Vitamin C derivative,
and not water soluble. It also requires a low pH to remain stable. Has the
functions as followed:
Ø Penetrate the skin
Ø Protect against UV radiation damage
Ø Increases the production of collagen
